Everything begins with the eyes. Not only are they crucial for getting the fly to ride hook-point up, but they also set the proportions and determine how the fly moves underwater.

Flash is the defining feature of this fly—and also where many tiers go wrong. Too much flash and your fly becomes a glitter bomb. Too little and it disappears in low light or dirty water. The Adachi Clouser finds the sweet spot.

We use Pearl Flashabou 6905 for most patterns—it’s versatile, high-contrast, and has that translucent shimmer that baitfish are known for. Cut a section and think of it as half your total flash. Fold it over when tying in to double it, which adds both durability and balance.

Here’s the pro move: cut the ends square. A square-cut flash pulses and moves more consistently in the water. Tapered or staggered cuts might look sleeker on the vise, but underwater, square ends create a fuller silhouette that flutters on the drop. That's when most predatory fish strike.

Tie it directly behind the eyes, fold it back on itself, and secure it with firm wraps. This creates a V-tail that adds action and flash without overwhelming the profile.

With the tail flash secured, wrap your thread forward to the hook eye and back again to build a thread underbody. This creates a smooth base for your epoxy, allowing you more control over the final shape.

The first coat of epoxy locks in this thread layer and adds just enough stiffness to keep the flash aligned. We like Loon UV Flow for this stage. It’s thin enough to soak into the thread, but it cures fast and clean.

Let it dry thoroughly before moving on. Rushing through this stage can lead to cloudy finishes or shifting materials later.

Most baitfish are light-colored underneath. That pale belly creates contrast from below and helps fish locate your fly, especially in stained water or low-light conditions.

Start with a piece of white synthetic material. EP Fibers or Steve Farrar’s SF Blend work beautifully here. Cut it square, then taper it by hand—pinch the middle and gently pull the strands out, twisting your fingers to create a gradual transition.

This section should extend slightly beyond the tail flash but remain shorter than the top wing. Aim for about half an inch past the hook bend. Tie it in behind the eyes, wrap it forward, and fold the material back on itself. This double-layer technique not only creates a natural taper but also makes the fly far more durable.

Use sharp scissors to shape the belly, dragging them across the back of the fibers to form a clean, tapered profile. You’re aiming for something that looks alive in the water, not like a toothbrush.

This step is optional, but if you’re after realism, it’s worth the extra few seconds.

Take a small section of Enrico Puglisi (EP) brush in a red, orange, or pinkish hue. Tease out a clump with your fingers and tie it in across the top of the hook shank, right behind the eyes. As you tighten it down, it’ll flare slightly and form a V under the hook.

This subtle splash of color mimics gill plates, adds depth to the fly, and creates a strike trigger, especially on pause retrieves.

Don’t go overboard. It’s meant to be a flash, not a beard.

Now it’s time to add the top wing—the section that completes the baitfish profile and locks the rest in place.

Use the same synthetic material as the belly, but in a darker color. Olive, gray, chartreuse, or tan, depending on your target species and local forage. Again, cut the square and taper by hand until you have a natural gradient.

Tie it in behind the eyes, fold it back, and secure it with a few snug wraps. Then fold it again for durability and trim to match—or slightly exceed—the belly length.

The final profile should be classic baitfish: broad shoulders, sleek taper, and nothing that’ll trap air or drag in the water.

Once all your materials are in place, it’s time to seal the deal—literally. This is what gives the Adachi Clouser its durability and professional polish.

Apply a second coat of epoxy. Focus on the head and the body area between the eyes and the front of the fly. Rotate it slowly while curing to avoid drips or uneven buildup.

Not only does this protect your thread and lock in the flash, but it also adds a subtle translucency that mimics the appearance of real fish scales.

Finish your thread with a whip finish and secure it with a small dab of epoxy for extra strength. Let it cure completely before fishing—or storing it in your fly box.

This fly isn’t meant to sit in a shadow box. It’s intended to hunt.

We fish it on floating, intermediate, and full-sink lines—depending on the conditions. On the flats, a short strip-pause retrieve gets results. In rivers, swing it through current seams and strip as it drops. In the surf, give it sharp twitches and pauses to imitate an injured baitfish.

No matter where you’re fishing, the Adachi Clouser holds up, gets down, and moves like it means it.