By George Revel
By George Revel
Spey lines have more pieces than Ikea furniture. Below is a description of lines, tips, and techniques we use to catch winter steelhead.
I will say there is such thing as knowing too much. If you don't care to know all the nuances or think you will be confused by bits and pieces of it all call us up 415-483-2278, or come into our fly shop in San Francisco. Tell us where you want to fish and your budget and we will get you everything you need at the best value.
The simple answer for a winter steelhead outfit is to get a rod that will cast a 525-550gr skagit head, a 10ft T-14 tip, a light tip, go fishing a lot, work hard, and you will find fish. It's a matter of being there when the fish are. The reality is steelhead fishing is easy when there are fish around.
For those of you traveling around the world on guided fishing trips you should show up prepared. Guides fish their beats hundreds of times and know from lots of trial and error exactly what sink tip a particular run likes. If you are a nerd and want to read everything you can on the subject, settle in.
Let’s start with a few ways to get your fly down. The goal typically is not to simply get your fly down as deep as possible, but rather to get your fly in the zone where you think the fish are. Getting down a couple of feet in heavy current can be a challenge on it’s own. Depth is not really as important when conditions are warm and you have good water clarity as fish can see your fly and are likely to move to it. When the conditions get cold or colored up putting the fly in the exact zone becomes much more critical. You can use these methods or a combination of these methods to achieve your desired depth.
A longer sink tip will help get your fly down and stay down. Longer sink tips will help you get down and stay down when your swing starts. A long sink tip to me is 12.5 to 15ft.
A cast at a 90 degree angle or greater will give your fly and sink tip more time to sink. If you cast and then take your steps you will also give your fly and tip more time to sink. Another method is cast at the angle you want and feed line to get more sink time.
A long leader (4-7ft) with a heavy fly is a great way to get down quick, but it can be more difficult to cast, because the mass of the fly is further from the mass of the sink tip and the head. Conversely, if you have a light fly that you are trying to sink use a shorter leader (2.5-3.5ft) to keep tethered to your sink tip to avoid the fly floating above your tip.
Traditional Skagit heads Like Rio Skagit Max are floating, but others like the Airflo FIST heads and Rio Game Changer heads incorporate a sinking portion to the shooting head that will aid in getting your fly down.
Sink tips come in a variety of weights that match up with the weight of the head you are using. Tungsten sink tips are measured in grains (a unit of measure) and typically are designated based on how many grains per foot. For example the winter steelheader’s go to is T-14 (or Tungsten 14) which has 14 grains per foot and if you have a 10ft tip the total tip weighs 140 grains. This allows us to quickly calculate what chopping off a foot will do to the overall weight of the tip. There is another method the sinktip is made with different materials to have a specific density. For example the 15ft Replacement Tips come in Intermediate (Sinks at 1-2 inches per second)
For Rio they make sink tips in:
Much debate on running lines. We carry every running line possible, but I think only a few are worthy of your consideration.
There are 3 basic types of running lines:
Nylon Mono (flat and round) - Shoots well and requires less power in casting. It can be tangle prone. Make sure to fix any tangles while it's loose and don't tighten the tangle or tangles will become more frequent. It can be hard to hang on to in cold conditions or if you have bad dexterity.
Fly Lines Style -It's thicker and tends to be less tangly. The weight and thickness of this style running line will cut down on your distance, but much easier to hang on to in cold conditions.
Braided- To be honest my experiences with braided are minimal and underwhelming
There are a ton of "spray poles" on the market and we have been fortunate enough to use most of them. I am not one to sell gear just because the latest is out, but spey rod tech has benefited so much from lighter more responsive graphites. The worst rods made today are as castable as the best rods made in 2010. Well maybe not the worst, but you get my point. We carry Sage, Winston, Scott, Beulah, Burkheimer, Redington, Echo, and Orvis.
A few things to consider:
Length - Longer rods cast further and mend better, but they are more difficult to travel with and are tough to cast in tight quarters. For most Pacific Northwest fishing situations a 12.5ft or 13ft 7wt rod is ideal.
Weight - I use a 7wt for 100% of my winter steelhead situations, but I certainly do recommend an 8wt as it comes in handy for less efficient casters. This is because there is more mass in the shooting head making it easier to cast heavy tips.
For most steelhead trips I have 2 rods rigged up, one with my fast sinking tip and maybe a sinking head and the other with a light tip. When I approach a run I will drop my rod with the light sink tip where the run slows down and I will want a lighter tip, and fish the faster tip at the head of the run. Yup, I am super lazy and have a lot of rods so its possible. On a big steelhead trip I'll usually have 3 rods rigged up with a heavy tip, light tip and dry fly if permitted. Here are a few that I have been drawn to.
George Revel
Is the owner of Lost Coast Outfitters and California native who has traveled around the world with the hopes of lucking into Steelhead. George has caught steelhead in CA, OR, WA, BC, AK, and Russia.